Replica Omega 321 Speedmaster Canopus Gold ™, the complete review

Introduction

If at the end of 2021 you were wondering what happened to the Replica Omega 321 caliber and if the brand ever intended to extend the “heritage” Speedmaster collection, the answer came during the first Speedy Tuesday of 2022 with the presentation of the new Omega 321 Canopus. Gold ™, which celebrates the 65th anniversary of the Speedmaster’s birth. The launch of this celebratory edition of Omega’s “boutique” collection, a concept that we will explore more in depth at the end of this article, extends the collection of the so-called “Historic Models” of the Swiss brand and continues the construction project of the collection which contains exclusively faithful reissues of historic Speedmasters.

The Caliber 321 Omega project

In creating the celebratory model of the original Omega CK 2915, the brand has aimed high, playing the card of extreme exclusivity and consistency as it has perhaps never done in the past with a Speedmaster. The first chronograph to mount the tachymeter scale on the bezel and not on the internal flange, the CK 2915 debuted in 1957 and represents the origin of the Speedmaster myth long before the name Moonwatch, of which it forms the logical basis, made its appearance tending to hide or overshadow everything that appeared before 1969.

The splendid caliber 321 was gradually set aside in favor of simpler and cheaper calibers to be produced on a large scale (and with a consequently more accessible price to the public). The first Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321, the CK2915-1 which inspired this re-edition, debuted with a steel case and bracelet and with the aim of timing events such as Grand Prix, whose popularity increased globally from the late 1950s.

In 2020, Omega launched an ambitious project to recover its caliber 321, also the result of the requests of avid collectors of historic Omega Caliber 321 models, and the result materialized with the launch of the Omega Cal 321 Ed White model, thus bringing enthusiasts closer together. Omega Speedmaster Cal 321 which were constantly looking, until then, for an equivalent vintage model in good condition.

It is likely that such a project, which does not aim at volumes but rather at increasing the aura of nobility of the brand, was born to intercept the people of Omega Caliber 321 watch lovers and in response to their pressing requests. We are talking about an audience of refined, demanding collectors, with an above-average spending capacity.

It is in this context that the Omega 321 project must be inserted and in particular the new Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 Canopus Gold ™ which takes the concept of exclusivity of the Speedmaster collection to peaks never reached before. The commemorative model is a perfect formal re-edition of the Omega CK 2915 model, in technical jargon it is a virtually contemporary watch, except for everything that is necessarily modern, including Canopus Gold ™, Omega’s proprietary white gold alloy introduced with the new Moonwatch Master Chronometer.

Speaking of specifications, in fact, the modern Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 in white gold has a case width of 38.6 mm, a thickness of 13.92 mm and a width between the lugs of 19 mm which is reduced to 15 mm in the closure area. bracelet. The measurements say it all about the search for balance and golden proportions that only the weight of white gold makes it less easy to perceive, when the watch is on the wrist.

Add to these features the “step dial” dial in black onyx, the bezel with tachymeter scale made using the “Grand Feu” technique and the refinement of yesteryear of the caliber 321; the new Canopus Gold ™ is the definitive chronograph (not only the definitive Speedmaster) and has attracted the attention of many enthusiasts who already anticipated the possibility of putting themselves on a long waiting list in order to have one.

The Omega writing with the oval letter “O”, the applied historical logo and the logo hidden in the center of the dial denote the extreme attention to detail and the will, even if clever, to capture the attention of detail freaks. Everything seems to have been taken care of in order to offer a possession experience that is at a decidedly higher average level than anything synonymous with Speedmaster.

However, I would have avoided engraving the hippocampus on the visible bottom of the caliber 321. Equipped with a small blue sapphire set in the eye, it aims to add exclusivity but dilutes the “faithful reissue” image and, above all, partially covers the caliber, among the main “talking points” of the watch and reasons for buying it. Each Omega Speedmaster 321 Canopus Gold ™ will be sold in a wooden box with a magnifying lens.

Omega’s Caliber 321

Welcome to the universe of one of the most admired chrono calibers in history, extremely refined for the time when it was presented to the public and handed down almost intact to the 2000s. Behind this ambitious project is the hand of Omega’s Atelier d’Excellence. Rebuilt using tomography, the modern 321 adds modern touches, such as Sedna ™ Gold plating, to the bridges and plate.

Furthermore, while maintaining the original oscillation frequency, equal to 2.5 Hertz, the caliber ensures an autonomy of 55 hours at full charge. The presence of the column wheel (driven by a horizontal clutch) makes it the definitive Omega chrono caliber. The assembly is carried out entirely by a single master watchmaker.

How much does the Omega Speedmaster 321 Canopus Gold ™ cost?

Almost more than the product, which has been discussed in depth so far, the main topic of conversation was and still remains the list price set at 81,000 euros. Omega Speedmaster 321 Canopus Gold ™ is the most expensive Speedmaster ever and many wonder why it costs so much, approaching the price of several complicated ones. It is the first thought if you try to build the price according to a standard, purely analytical logic. I tried to observe it from the point of view of the buyer first and then of the brand, looking for an answer.

The product approach is undoubtedly that of a haute horlogerie boutique model. Calibers 321 do not follow the standard production but are produced in limited annual quantities; the 321 was recreated through an accurate reverse engineering process. Nevertheless, the Speedmaster Ed White, which mounts the same caliber, has a price list within the threshold of fifteen thousand euros.

This watch is more exclusive in everything and as a consumer I would have assumed a price of just over 45,000 euros, in line with the average price of the segment. In this case, however, we are talking about the re-edition of the first Speedmaster, made mostly in white gold. Then other factors come into play, some of which are intangible and the brand’s perspective comes into play, which in my opinion includes the analysis of the vintage market: an original 1957 Speedmaster, assuming you find one of the same age and in good condition, exceeds the 110,000 Euros on the marketplace (auctions therefore excluded).

At € 81,000, the Omega Speedmaster 321 Canopus Gold ™ is aimed at anyone who owns an original CK 2915 or would like one. That potential customer can now turn their gaze to the reissue, with arguably more modern and rich content, and they want this watch, regardless of the price-complication ratio (within certain limits). It is a positioning logic that makes sense from the brand’s perspective and simultaneously aims to further elevate the hype around the Speedmaster. It is therefore a message with a stronger meaning, and as such it made a noise, and which will spread across the Speedmaster range, trying to enhance it more and more.